Few treatments have filled my consultation room with questions this year the way polynucleotides have, and I understand why, because the idea of using purified salmon DNA to help skin repair itself sounds both futuristic and wonderfully natural at the same time. Patients come to my Midtown Manhattan studio having read about polynucleotides in NYC beauty columns, having seen under-eye results from clinics in London and Seoul, or having a friend who had them abroad, and they want to know one simple thing: can I have this here? The honest answer is more nuanced than most of what you will find online, so I want to share exactly what I tell my patients, including what polynucleotides are, what the science supports, where they stand legally in the United States, and how I help patients reach the same goal with treatments I can stand behind.
What are polynucleotides, exactly?
Polynucleotides are purified fragments of DNA, most often taken from salmon or trout, that are processed until they are highly refined and compatible with human tissue. You will also see the term PDRN, short for polydeoxyribonucleotide, and the two are close relatives from the same starting material; the difference is mostly the length of the DNA fragments, with PDRN made of shorter chains and polynucleotides made of longer ones that form a thicker, more gel-like solution.
The appeal is that neither one is a filler in the way most people imagine. They are not designed to add volume or lift a cheek, and they do not behave like hyaluronic acid. The idea is to improve the quality of the skin itself, its hydration, elasticity, and texture, by encouraging the skin's own repair processes, which is why they are so often discussed alongside biostimulators like Radiesse and Sculptra, even though they work in a very different way.
What the science actually says
This is where I slow down with my patients, because the excitement around polynucleotides has moved faster than the research. The proposed mechanism is elegant: the DNA fragments are thought to calm inflammation and give fibroblasts, the cells that produce collagen and elastin, the building blocks they need to do their work. Much of that understanding, however, comes from laboratory and early clinical work rather than large, independent human trials.
The human studies that do exist are generally small and short term, and several frequently cited papers in this category have since been retracted, which tells me the evidence is thinner than the marketing suggests rather than proving the treatment does nothing. The more careful studies tend to show measurable improvements in hydration and skin texture, while results on overall appearance, as judged by blinded evaluators, have been more modest. I find that a reasonable place to land: a promising tool for skin quality, not a transformation, and certainly not a replacement for structure when structure is what a face has lost.
Are polynucleotide injections FDA approved?
As of 2026, no injectable polynucleotide or PDRN product has been approved or cleared by the FDA for aesthetic use in the United States. That includes the brand names patients most often mention, which are widely used and regulated in South Korea and across Europe but have not been through the American approval process.
This matters more than it might seem. An unapproved injectable has no US label, no FDA-reviewed safety information to share with you, and no verified American supply chain, which means the person injecting it carries the full responsibility for where it came from and what is actually in the syringe. I practice as a Registered Nurse and aesthetic nurse injector under physician oversight here in New York, and I choose not to inject products that have no approved pathway in this country, however popular they are elsewhere. When a clinic in NYC offers polynucleotide injections, I think it is entirely fair to ask what product they are using and what its regulatory status is.
Topical PDRN, the kind found in serums and used during microneedling, is a different category. It is sold legally in the US as a cosmetic ingredient, which is not the same as FDA approval as a treatment, but it is a transparent way to bring this chemistry into your skin.
How I use PDRN in my practice
For patients who are drawn to the regenerative idea behind polynucleotides, my preferred approach is microneedling with PDRN. Microneedling creates thousands of fine, controlled channels in the skin, which on its own encourages the natural repair response, and those same channels allow a PDRN serum applied during the treatment to reach far deeper than it could through intact skin. I have written about what salmon DNA microneedling involves in more detail, but the short version is that it is the closest thing to the polynucleotide philosophy that I can offer with complete transparency.
The brand we use: VAMP Advanced
At Dr. Cris Studio in Midtown Manhattan, we use VAMP Advanced in our PDRN skin-care approach. Its formulation brings together PDRN, hyaluronic acid, vitamins, amino acids, and minerals. According to the VAMP Advanced manufacturer product page, the formula contains:
- PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide), 5 mg/mL: described by the manufacturer as high-purity, medical-grade PDRN. The salmon-derived DNA fragments are the ingredient behind the familiar “salmon DNA” name. PDRN is studied for potential roles in skin repair and collagen-related processes, but these mechanisms should not be read as a guarantee of clinical results from this formulation.
- Hyaluronic acid, 5 mg/mL: a moisture-binding ingredient included to support skin hydration and a smoother, more supple appearance.
- Nutritional blend: 11 vitamins, 23 amino acids, and 6 minerals in a formulation designed to support hydrated, radiant-looking skin. These ingredient counts describe the formula, not a promise of a particular treatment outcome.
The manufacturer’s “medical-grade” description is not a statement of FDA approval. Individual results vary, and the treatment plan is tailored during consultation.
The goal is skin that looks more hydrated and luminous, with texture and tone refining gradually over a series of treatments spaced several weeks apart as the skin continues to renew itself. Everyone's skin responds differently, so I set expectations around gradual improvement in skin quality rather than dramatic change, and I adjust the plan to how your skin actually responds.
When skin quality is not the whole story
Polynucleotides are often searched by people who are really describing something else, such as hollowness under the eyes, softening along the jawline, or skin that has lost its firmness. When I assess a face, I am looking at three layers at once: the quality of the skin, the support beneath it, and the proportion of the whole, and a skin-quality treatment alone cannot restore support that has been lost over years.
For loss of firmness and early laxity, I often recommend biostimulators such as Radiesse and Sculptra, which work by prompting your own collagen production over the following months and are FDA approved for specific aesthetic indications. If you are weighing the two, my thoughts on why patience is the point with Sculptra and on biostimulators versus fillers may help. For patients who want to rebuild skin from within over a full year, The Collagen Club combines biostimulation with regenerative skin treatments in one structured plan, and when volume truly is the issue, hyaluronic acid fillers placed with restraint remain the most precise and reversible option I have.
Who is a good candidate for this approach?
The regenerative skin-quality approach tends to suit patients who notice dullness, fine crepiness, uneven texture, or early signs of aging, who want their skin to look rested and healthy rather than changed, and who are comfortable with results that build gradually. It is less suited to someone who wants visible lift in a single visit, and it is not appropriate during active skin infection or certain inflammatory flares, which is one of the reasons every plan begins with a proper consultation.
My honest take
I love that polynucleotides have people thinking about skin health from the inside out, because that has always been the heart of how I practice, and I will keep watching the research closely. Until an injectable product has a clear approved pathway in the United States, I would rather offer you the chemistry in a form whose status is clear, combine it with treatments whose safety record I know well, and build a plan around what your face actually needs. Beauty that lasts is rarely about the newest name; it is about restoring proportion and radiance in a way that still looks like you.
If you would like to talk through whether PDRN microneedling, a biostimulator, or a combination is right for your skin, I would be glad to see you. Book a consultation with me through Mangomint, or call the studio at 212-347-4708. Dr. Cris Studio is located at 455 Madison Avenue, Spa Level, New York, NY 10022.
Frequently asked questions
What are polynucleotides used for?
Polynucleotides are purified DNA fragments, usually from salmon or trout, used in aesthetics to improve skin quality, including hydration, elasticity, and texture. They are not volumizing fillers and are not designed to lift or reshape the face.
Are polynucleotide injections FDA approved in the US?
No. As of 2026, no injectable polynucleotide or PDRN product is FDA approved or cleared for aesthetic use in the United States, although they are regulated and widely used in South Korea and Europe. Topical PDRN serums are sold legally in the US as cosmetic ingredients.
What is the difference between polynucleotides and PDRN?
Both come from the same purified fish DNA. PDRN is made of shorter DNA fragments, while polynucleotides are longer chains that form a thicker, more gel-like solution. In practice the names are often used interchangeably, which adds to the confusion.
Can I get polynucleotides in NYC?
Some clinics in New York offer polynucleotide injections, but because no injectable product is FDA approved, I recommend asking any provider which product they use and what its regulatory status is. In my practice, I offer PDRN through microneedling instead.
How long do polynucleotide results last?
There is not yet reliable long-term data on how long injectable polynucleotide results last, and any specific number should be treated with caution. With PDRN microneedling, I typically plan a series of treatments followed by periodic maintenance, adjusted to how your skin responds.
Are polynucleotides better than biostimulators like Sculptra or Radiesse?
They do different jobs. Polynucleotides and PDRN focus on skin quality, while biostimulators like Sculptra and Radiesse stimulate collagen to restore firmness and support, and they are FDA approved for specific aesthetic indications. Many patients benefit most from a plan that addresses both.